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Rock types

In The Lake District there are lots of different rock types that we use to climb on. At the heart of it all is Borrowdale's igneous rock, however there are also granite and gabbro. To the north of Borrowdale Skiddaw's soft slate make climbing rare and are used mor commonly by walkers and runners. To the south and to a smaller amount in the north of the area limestone scars give a harder challenge challenges and on the coast to the west, at St Bees, and in the Eden Valley to the east Permian sandstone gives different problems.

Sandstone can be a nightmare. The soft rock cannot sustain hard edges – all features are smooth and rounded. Rain and sweaty hands easily erode sandstone. “Holds” on sandstone have a frustrating tendency to slope down and out; cracks are shallow and offer little purchase; years of being been gripped by sweaty hands and being rained on have damaged some holds leaving a permanently bad feel to them. Other patches carry a ball-bearing layer of sand grains causing feet and fingers to skate unwillingly over the surface. It’s not surprising that it’s not well favoured by UK climbers.

Limestone calls for delicacy of touch, gritstone – God’s Own Rock, this has a more gymnastic approach, earning its followers the nickname of “Gritstone Monkey” . For all its apparent smoothness, limestone, especially when weather-washed and free from vegetation, has the texture of very fine sandpaper, giving surprising grip even on smooth surfaces in the dry. In the wet though, it turns treacherously greasy and un-climbable, best not to get caught in a storm when on limestone.

Gritstone on the other hand is courser, rougher, can and will give you bloody knuckles and even a rash-like effect on the fingertips at the end of the day, caused by pressure on the skin of tiny pin-sharp grains of quartz. Yet the rough surface texture provides grip from those same points of quartz grains even when a veritable waterfall is running over the slabs. Limestone tends to have small, sharp, hard edges, demanding accuracy, balance and trust in the strength of the fingertips. Gritstone weathers to more rounded shapes; holds tend to be larger, the best known as jugs (short for jug-handles) for obvious reasons, especially those pulse-relieving “thanks God” holds.

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Disclaimer - Climbing and other Activities can be extremely dangerous and can result in permanent disability or even DEATH. Participants in these activities should be aware of and accept these risks and be responsible for their own involvement and I, Ross Pickthall can not be held responsible. Always seek advice and information

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