Placing Gear
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Chocks
The best placements
are those that provide maximum surface area contact between the metal and rock.
Vertical and horizontal cracks as well as some pockets all can be used. A good
placement will not wobble or move around and will not come out when a firm tug
from the direction it is to be loaded is given.
The most frequently
used chocks are nuts with curved faces. These can provide a very stable
placement if three points of contact are ensured.
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Horizontal cracks are more difficult to utilise especially when a downward load is anticipated; In this situation placing the nut concave face Uppermost is the most secure since it encourages the nut to grip the crack as it tilts when loaded. Placements that are deep in the crack are often more secure than those at the surface but can be awkward to place and difficult to retrieve. Placements in parallel-sided, flared and open bottomed cracks are all difficult to arrange
without a device that has a camming action. Hexes can be placed with some success in such situation but care is needed to avoid placements that merely sit loosely in the crack with very little surface area contact. It often takes two or three attempts to seat a hex
effectively. Many climbers find it difficult to have confidence in micro nut placements, which require careful positioning to maximise surface area contact. It is important to assess the quality of the rock as the smaller pieces of gear concentrate the force on a tiny area making the rock more susceptible to splintering. Given their inherent low strength (2^4kN) and the complexities of judging a good placement, they are often bunched in twos or threes to create a more reliable placement.
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